Thursday, January 14, 2010

Waves, Wipeouts,Barrels and Good times..!!!!!!!!!!!

Well guys sorry for the delay(Penny,Steve &Shaq) haha.. Things have been full bore... But to start things off we arrived on Oahu last Sunday and were contemplating what to do? Stay on the Nth Shore and paddle some big waves or try and go to Maui and surf Peahi..We got the go ahead late Sunday that we had a ski(thanks Dave and Laird) so we got a last minute flight to Maui with Tim Bonython who was going to shoot footage all day.. All the last minute preparation was done and we got to bed and ready for what was looking to be a swell close to the size of the Eddie swell that hi in early December.. But what we awoke to was something different.. We launched the ski's around 7am and started the 30 min ski ride and it looked pretty similar to the last swell i surfed but when we got there we saw a 3 wave set that must of been 25 ft Hawaiian plus and just thick and raw and mean.. It had a energy about it that was different.. As Laird said the Garbage compacter is going to be at work today and it was.. Me and Billy sat in the channel and ran safety for the boys for a few hrs and then got the go ahead to go get some.. So Billy was up.. I knew after watching it for a few hrs he needed to get on the horse and get some straight away.. This was his 1st time surfing Peahi.. He ended up getting about 12 waves.. Mainly rights but a few lefts and 1 big left that had his heart in his mouth.. He didn't make a mistake and made all his rides. Then it was my turn.. We had a rough time getting some waves..Crowd was crazy and out of control and i must of got burned about 8 times while Billy was trying to get me some waves..He did get me a good right the biggest one i have had so far and i took a pretty good wipeout as well.. One i will remember for a long time..
After Jaws we booked a flight and were off to Northern California to follow the swell.We left that night and took the red eye to San Jose which had a stop over in Salt Lake City ,Utah which when we got there was 0 degrees, snowing on the tarmac and freaking freezing.. Billy was wearing thongs and was losing it.. We arrived and had Rob from Surftech pick us up in the Van and dropped us off at Pete Mel's place where we were staying.. We went through the routine again got ready and were waiting for another big day at Mavericks.. We were up at 430am and the buoy readings were down a touch so that was a little bit of a worry for us.. We arrived and things didn't look to good.. High tide not much swell and morning sickness from the night before.. But we went out and waited for a few hrs and then it started to do its thing.. I whipped Pete in to a few for a hr then Billy jumped on the rope and on his second wave his got fully Barrelled at Maverick's.. Pete and the guys in the channel were going nuts saying it was one of the best they have seen in a long time..He got clipped at the end and actually took a good beating and was down for a while and then i had to go in and get him before the next one mowed him.. After that Pete's ski broke down so we towed him in and made our way back out and we towed till sunset and had a blast..It wasn't huge but we got plenty of waves and the crowd was super mellow and was really cool to be out there.. We had planned on getting up at 4am this morning and driving 4 hrs to a slab we know about but we slept in and missed it..So we cruised this morning and got some stuff done then we went and paddled Mavericks this afternoon for 2 hrs ..Was only 12 to 15 feet but was good to test a few new boards out and get in the cold , sharky waters again.. So we are now about to crash to sleep as we are flying back to Hawaii in the morning. Looks like another nice swell hitting the islands on Sunday... Ok till then take care and will try and update every few days.... Cheers Jamie
Thanks to Tracy Kraft for the great images...

1 comment:

  1. Shot #2... yikes.
    Shot #3... very nice.

    Congrats on a fun adventure. Seems there is more to come in HI and CA. And thanks for the vicarious stoke & updates.